Today’s trail went up and down, but more ups than downs. Gusting winds picked up dust and painted it everywhere, and it found its way into our mouths and noses, itching our eyes and throats. It was a very uncomfortable day. But we were pleased that Mount Everest jumped out frequently from afar. It was easy to pick it out because it dragged a tail of dust cloud. We also saw many other magnificent high mountains.

We arrived at Tengboche (3,870m/12,697ft) after hiking for six or seven hours and a brief stop for lunch. An impressive monastery is hidden in the high mountains, and the view is breathtaking. The glorious Mount Everest, which would appear on a clear day, was covered by clouds. Everyone was disappointed.

After dinner, the chill inside the teahouse seemed to be also freezing the brains of its dwellers. But before retreating to my room, I still convinced my partner to change our planned route for tomorrow: he wanted to hike on a less crowded alternative route, but it would take one more day to reach EBC. I asked him whether such freezing conditions would be worth an extra night. He thought for a second and gave me a thumbs up.