Around 5 AM I heard noises through the thin walls, indicating that many people were up. I knew the airport would be crowded when it reopened, so I quickly packed, checked out without having coffee or breakfast, and headed straight to the airport.

The sky cleared, and the departure lounge was packed. People stood shoulder-to-shoulder at the check-in counters. There were rumors of eight or nine flights today, but no official announcement was made. I noticed that the airport staff were very respectful and responsive to a busy, white-haired Nepali senior, who looked kind since he often wore a smiley face. So, I tried to chat with him when he was near. I asked him whether the crowding was unique, or happened often. He said it was both unique and a regular occurrence. I also asked what he would do at times when only a few passengers passed through. He did not respond. Once I saw three young backpackers complain to him that they had waited two days to fly out. “We can’t go back to that teahouse for one more night…” uttered one of them, with large teardrops rolling down her cheeks. Later I joked with the senior that managing passengers’ tears was also an item on his job description. The senior seemed to be amused by my commentary.

The first six planes arrived and departed with all seats filled, mainly with large tour groups. Since I didn't have boarding priority for my flight scheduled several days later, I started considering a tour guide's suggestion. He assured me that if his clients, whose international flights were three days away, didn't board the plane by 8:30 AM, they would return to Kathmandu and I could join them. The journey involved a day of hiking and two days of jeep riding. Someone also warned me that after a day of jeep riding, I would feel extremely sore, "as if your bones are falling apart". Just as I was starting to feel hopeless, the seventh plane landed. The senior I chatted with took my passport and handed it to the ticketing agent, who issued me a boarding pass. He explained that there were no direct flights to Kathmandu that day. He flew me to Ramechhap, where I could take a 5-hour airport shuttle back to Kathmandu. I felt incredibly grateful, but the senior staff member barely acknowledged my gratitude, threw me a smile, and went back to his busy tasks.

About 30 minutes later I was in the air off to Ramechhap. Kathmandu, you seemed so far away last night, here I come!